Italian Porchetta with Crispy Crackling and Pan Gravy

Toast the fennel seeds and peppercorns in a dry skillet over medium heat for about 2 minutes, shaking the pan, until the fennel smells fragrant and turns lightly brown. Grind them coarsely, then mix with the salt, rosemary, red pepper flakes and garlic to make a thick paste.

Pat the pork completely dry and lay it skin side down. Do a test roll: if there is too much meat for the skin to wrap around, trim a strip about 1 inch (3 cm) wide from one long side of the meat, leaving the skin attached, and keep the trimmed piece.

Cut a shallow diamond pattern about 1/2 inch (1 cm) deep into the meat side only, being careful not to cut down to the skin. Rub the paste into the meat and into the cuts, and rub some over the trimmed piece too.

Lay the trimmed meat down the center, roll the belly up tightly into a log, and tie it with kitchen twine every 1 inch (2.5 cm). Set it on a rack over a tray and refrigerate uncovered for 24 to 48 hours (at least 12) so the skin dries out.

Heat the oven to 265°F (130°C), or 250°F (120°C) on convection. Rub the skin with 1 tablespoon of oil, then rub the salt all over it. Roast the pork on the rack for 3 1/2 hours, until the meat is tender when tested with a fork but the skin is still soft. The internal temperature should be well above 145°F (63°C).

Take the pork out and raise the oven to 465°F (240°C). Move the rack and pork to a clean tray, keeping the first tray and its drippings for gravy. Drizzle the skin with the remaining oil and return it to the oven as it heats.

Roast for 30 to 40 minutes, turning the tray halfway, until the skin is puffed and crisp all over. Rest the porchetta for 30 to 60 minutes before removing the twine and slicing with a serrated knife.

For the gravy, pour the fat from the first tray into a jug. Set the tray over medium heat, add 1/2 cup (120 ml) of water and scrape up the browned bits as it simmers.

Heat 3 tablespoons of the reserved fat in a saucepan over medium-high heat, stir in the flour and cook for 1 minute. Gradually whisk in the deglazing liquid, the remaining 1 1/2 cups (360 ml) of water and the pepper. Simmer for about 2 minutes until thickened, season with salt if needed, and serve with the sliced pork.